Cambodia was never on the top 10 list of places I wanted to visit. In fact, prior to last May, I knew almost nothing about the country. I probably couldn’t have told you it was sandwiched between Vietnam and Thailand or that it was the home of the majestic Angkor Wat.
Upon further research, it fell even lower on my list. Poor infrastructure. Not yet recovered from a major (semi-recent) war. Lost culture, resulting in what seemed like an experience that would be a watered down mixture of the nearby Southeast Asian countries. Nothing that exactly sold it as being worth a visit, with only one year of time and the whole world to see.
But because we have old friends living there, it was quickly added to the top of our list. And that’s how we found ourselves spending two weeks in a country we’d barely heard of and knew almost nothing about.
Embracing what was ahead with excitement and anticipation, we boarded a bus from Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam that would take us across the border and to Phnom Penh, Cambodia. We’d read and heard a variety of different experiences (extortion and kidnapping included) about this border crossing, so we were ready for anything. We settled in on a luxury tour bus, visas in hand, and got comfortable.
As has become my habit, I sat next to a window and prepared to soak in the countryside as we drove. After sitting in city traffic for a couple of hours in HCMC, we reached the border and experienced a super easy crossing thanks to the expertise of the bus operator. (Even though the lunch at the duty-free restaurant in the no-man’s land between Vietnam and Cambodia might have been the worst food of the trip – and our lives – so far.)
For the next three hours, I stared out the window and was faced with all the things I’ve least enjoyed about the developing countries we’ve visited in the past. Mud. Trash (Heaps and heaps of trash). A sad looking Brahman cow tied in every yard. Standing water everywhere (i.e.…mosquitoes & Dengue Fever).
You know how we were challenged and stretched in Vietnam? Well…I was ready to return to the comfort of our Western lifestyle. Waking up daily covered in bug bites and finding creepy crawlies in every corner was getting a bit old. Just keeping it real here people.
Thankfully, over the next two weeks, I was proven wrong over and over again. Tourism in Cambodia took a major dive due to Covid, and hasn’t really returned to anywhere near its previous volume. This meant empty hotels, quiet markets and roads lined with (extremely pushy) tuk tuk drivers waiting for work. The locals were thrilled to have the work we provided, but their kindness went way beyond good customer service. Every person we encountered was so friendly, and went way above and beyond what was necessary. Coming from a city and a culture that lives or dies based on perfect customer service, what we experienced wasn’t just an act or a job…it was who the people are.
In some ways, Cambodia was similar to Vietnam. Outdoor food markets, motorbikes, stray dogs. But the differences were easy to spot once you looked for beyond the surface. While the climate was similar, the culture was not. Perhaps most noticeably, in terms of religion. The majority of Cambodian people are devout Buddhists, which is clear in the way neighborhoods and lives are built. Even in the most impoverished areas of the country, where able adults spend their days working to earn enough money to purchase food for their family, there is an ornate, well-tended shrine every few hundred meters. In Vietnam, most people we encountered classified themselves as belonging to no religion, while practicing a folk religion centered on ancestor worship.
It doesn’t end there. From the relationship to the hot sun (avoidance at all cost vs. indifference) to the use of horns when driving (constant vs. nearly non-existent), the differences are vast. The effects of communism are felt far and wide in Vietnam, from the flags lining every boulevard and near worship of political figures (even if forced) to the party-line you receive when asking about the “American War” and the effects on how the people view Americans. In Cambodia, you see much less government intervention in daily life, and almost everyone agrees openly that the existing government is corrupt. But you also see the impact of many foreign influences, with NGOs and foreign government programs on every corner.
Although we had read extensively about the lost culture due to the Khmer Rouge (look it up), we were thrilled to experience first-hand the many social enterprises that are working hard to reclaim what was lost. Organizations like Artisans Angkor aim to revitalize the traditional craft industries while providing job training and security. We got to visit the organization’s silk farm and manufacturing facility, which was a beautiful and educational experience. The Phare Circus provides well-paying jobs to graduates of a local arts school, an enterprise aimed at breaking the cycle of poverty for the surrounding communities. And Haven restaurant serves as a training program that creates job prospects for disadvantaged young adults while providing a high quality meal based on traditional recipes and techniques, where we had a fantastic dinner. The commitment to recovering and preserving tradition provided beautiful opportunities to appreciate the Khmer culture, and we were thrilled to discover a vibrant culinary and arts scene.
Of course, I can’t write about Cambodia without sharing our experience at the Angkor temple complex. While you’ve undoubtedly seen photos of the sun rising behind Angkor Wat or the spires reflected in the square reservoir, you might not know that it’s the largest religious site in the world (more than 400 acres) and was built almost 1,000 years ago. One of the ancient wonders of the world, it rivals the likes of Machu Picchu and Chichen Itza in beauty and form. Originally constructed as a Hindu temple dedicated to the god Vishnu, it transformed to a Buddhist temple over time.
We weren’t totally sold on the 4:00 AM wakeup to experience the sunrise, but decided to give it a go. Who knows when we’ll be back again, after all. The next thing we knew, we were speeding down the “highway” in the pre-dawn hours on a trailer attached to the back of a motorbike. An experience in its own rite. We arrived in the dark, without a shred of light, and wandered off in the general direction that our driver pointed out. Expecting to see huge crowds and be able to follow someone else to the right place, we did minimal research into where to go for the best sunrise views. Apparently the low season is actually really low, and there were very few others there when we made it through the gate at 5:00. We found what seemed like a good place, then settled in to wait. The verdict is unanimous: it was worth it. Although it was a cloudy morning, watching the ancient spires come into focus against the slowly awakening sky was a special experience.
We explored Angkor Wat and two other ancient temples that morning, with the Bayon temple a clear favorite. Nearly deserted, except for a few aggressive monkey families, the kids had their run of the place and entered a world of pure imagination. Chasing each other through the moss-covered, stone rooms between shafts of light will be a core memory they carry through their lives. By 10 AM we were templed-out for the day (and way too hot) so we headed back for some pool time, prepared to return again in a few days to experience more history.
During our second trip to the Angkor complex, we spent most of our time at Ta Prohm (aka the Tree Temple or the Tomb Raider Temple). Made famous by Lara Croft, this was the busiest of the temples we visited, full of tour groups and families celebrating the Pchum Ben holiday. Even so, it was a highlight for us. Seeing the jungle completely overtake the manmade structure was a reminder of the power that lies in the wild.
While in Cambodia, we also got to have some really normal experiences with old friends that felt like home. One afternoon we attended a middle school basketball game and joined our friends for dinner at their home while the kids played board games. And those same friends even kept the kids one night while JP and I snuck away for a date. A priceless gift during a year with few childcare opportunities!
Even though it wasn’t love at first sight, the country grew on me – I think most of us feel the same. The kind and generous people, the exceptional food and the natural beauty (almost) made up for the faults.
Peapod on Purpose 